Ireland On My Mind
Custom Specialty Guided Tours
The Erin Way
While Éire is simply the name for the island of Ireland in the Irish language (gaeilge), and sometimes used in English, Erin is a common poetic name for Ireland, as in "Erin go bragh." A common phrase that translates to "Ireland Forever"
This page includes Tips and Tricks for traveling in Ireland as well as a great example of an Itinerary.
Don't travel Ireland "The Erin Way" Until You've Read These Tips and Faqs:
TIP #1: Hire A Driver
Driving in Ireland demands serious attention due to its challenging nature. We personally know of American drivers who have experienced not just one but multiple car accidents while navigating Ireland in just a few days. We've witnessed tourists pulled over on the roadside, the driver's head resting on the steering wheel, while the rest of the passengers walk along the lane towards town. Hubcaps often litter the roadsides in Ireland, and cars can be found with extensive side-swiping damage.
One of the most significant challenges of driving in Ireland is judging the distance between the left bumper of the car and the curb, making cornering a daunting task, especially on the narrow, shoulderless roads. Avoiding stone walls, which can be just inches from the side of the car, becomes tricky when traffic is moving at 65 miles an hour. The person sitting in the front left seat should try not to scream too loudly when they start out, feeling like all the traffic is coming straight at them. Try not to react when shrubs and large flower masses brush against the car and get caught in the side mirror, as sudden shrieking can unsettle the driver.
While daily driving on the Erin Way may not be exceedingly challenging, a 10-day road trip in Ireland can be quite demanding for a single driver. It's not recommended and, in fact, illegal for the driver to partake in the "pub life" during the day trip.
Consider hiring a professional Irish driver if you plan to make a trip to Ireland truly unforgettable. Although it may increase the trip's cost, it eliminates the need to rent a car, pay for car insurance, and cover the expensive gas costs in Ireland compared to the U.S. Furthermore, most tourists overlook that with a driver, you're likely to see two or three times more incredible sites within the same timeframe than those who drive themselves. Drivers not only know where everything is but also how to navigate the sometimes challenging Irish terrain. They add an extra dimension to the trip as they often have extensive knowledge about Irish history, music, literature, pubs, poetry, folklore, and general information about modern Ireland, stemming from their local experience.
Testimonial: I recently traveled to Ireland and embarked on the Erin Way with four friends. Luckily, someone had the foresight to hire a professional driver for the entire trip. The result was that we could all relax and enjoy the journey equally, without worrying about getting lost or driving off a cliff. The time spent in the car became a genuinely enjoyable part of the trip that we looked forward to every morning.
However, I wasn't prepared for how much value the driver added to our overall experience. Firstly, the trip was far more relaxing because we could dictate our itinerary and schedule. No one had to think twice about having a Guinness at the many quaint pubs we passed. Most importantly, our driver took us to places not listed in any books or websites. Our favorite experience was a personal tour of one of the oldest inhabited castles in Ireland, not open to the public, complete with medieval artifacts, overgrown gardens, and 15th-century walls in disrepair. Having a driver transformed our trip to Ireland into an exceptional and unforgettable one.
C.J. Wall, St. Paul, Minnesota
Tip #2: Take Along A Michelin Map
Do not embark on a trip to Ireland without a Michelin Map. You can typically find them at your local bookstore. Purchase at least two for each car. Michelin maps depict most of the small roads, although some may not be labeled. In contrast, the maps you receive at hotels or when renting a car often lack even some major roads and are virtually useless for navigating the Erin Way. Many roads in Ireland are poorly marked or have elusive markings. Even professional drivers in Ireland rely on Michelin maps.
Tip #3: Stay in the heart of Ireland's small towns or villages
We highly recommend staying in small boutique hotels in some of Ireland's most charming villages. The hotels, often over 200 years old, have ideal locations right in the center of everything, allowing you to explore without the stress of driving.
These hotels are usually charming, with original architectural details. Most are considered 3-star hotels due to their mid-range pricing and often lack features like air conditioning, elevators, and room service. Forget about great cable TV, or sometimes, TV altogether. The rooms and bathrooms may be small, but they are usually clean, and the bathrooms are often updated. Note: Most accommodations in Ireland include a hearty breakfast. Make sure to inquire about breakfast inclusion in your tariff.
Most Americans tend to stay outside of town, perhaps due to safety concerns or traffic worries. Staying in the heart of small Irish towns offers one of the richest experiences Ireland has to offer. It allows you to stroll around, experience the local architecture, enjoy the pub culture, music, and interact with the friendly Irish people. Local pub and restaurant food is typically hearty and delicious. Staying in these towns provides a unique opportunity to observe a culture that seems to encompass the 19th, 20th, and 21st centuries all at once. What a privilege!
Tip #4: Stop at every Information Center (look for a small "i" in green and white)
Ireland boasts excellent Information Centers, even in small towns. Even if you don't need assistance at the moment, it's worthwhile to stop by, as their gift shops often offer high-quality gifts and souvenirs, including CDs, books, maps, original artwork, woolen goods, and beautifully matted photographs.
FAQs:
What time of year is the best to take this trip?
We recommend May to September because the days are much longer during these months. In June and July, it's light out until 10 at night, providing ample time for sightseeing. If you travel during other months, you'll have less daylight for exploration. The Erin Way is best experienced during the summer, but it can be modified to suit your schedule if you travel in other months or if you have extra days to spare.
How long will it take the average tourist to complete this trip?
When we drive the Erin Way in late June, knowing our route and with a local driver, we complete the journey in the full 10 days. However, the duration of your trip depends on your preferences. You could spend weeks in one area, exploring Connemara, for example, and still not see everything. We're providing you with a list of highlights and a loose route. It's up to you to choose what's important, how long you spend at each site, and how much you want to explore each day. Some prefer long days, starting at 7 a.m. and touring until sundown, while others opt for shorter days, starting around 8:30 a.m. and finishing by about 6 p.m. Life often changes plans on a tour, as you might stumble upon a village or a pub you want to explore further, veer off the path for a round of golf or to visit relatives, making it difficult to predict the exact duration of your trip.
How do I find original music?
Staying in small Irish towns puts you within steps of shops, pubs, and, most importantly, music. There's an abundance of musicians during the summer, especially in July and August, but music can be found at almost any time with some planning. You'll have to seek out the music; it won't come to you. After checking into your hotel, inquire about where you can find music that night. Look for notes on pub doors announcing "Sessions." Most musical sessions begin around 9:30 at night. Sometimes, you'll find gatherings of musicians in churches and halls. If music is a top priority for you, travel in July or August, review town websites in advance, and check if they have music festivals. Many pubs also have their own websites, where they advertise their live music schedules. Several music festivals are held in even the smallest Irish towns, making them worth considering or planning your trip around. Some of our favorite musical towns on the Erin Way are Dingle Town, Lahinch, Letterfrack, and Westport.
What about golf in this region?
The Erin Way boasts world-famous links courses, including Tralee, Lahinch, Ballybunion, and Doonbeg, alongside lesser-known courses that offer stunning ocean views. For instance, we encountered Irish golfers at one of the lesser-known courses who informed us that the winner received a head of cabbage, the second-place golfer won a bunch of carrots, and the third place got a turnip. Nevertheless, this course is renowned for its breathtaking ocean vistas on every hole.
"Ireland On My Mind" Linda Rosen Managing Director
Planning is everything.
A Great idea for an Itinerary
Day 1: Ennis
We recommend beginning and ending your journey in Ennis, a convenient 20-minute cab ride from Shannon Airport. Ennis, often considered the crown jewel of the region, is the ideal Irish town where you can rest and recuperate after a long flight. Prepare to be amazed by the bustling activity of the small towns and villages you'll explore throughout this trip, with Ennis being no exception.
Ennis seems straight out of a Walt Disney creation, resembling the picturesque Main Street at Disney World. Its narrow streets wind gracefully through town, flanked by original 18th and 19th-century storefronts. You'll find many shops, pubs, and hotels painted in vibrant shades of pink, yellow, and blue, and in the summer, they overflow with oversized flower baskets.
We recommend the Old Ground Hotel, ideally located for what we call the "3 S's" – sleeping, shopping, and sipping. After a long flight, some in your group may be eager to explore and enjoy a bit of shopping or pub crawling, while others might prefer a good night's rest. The Old Ground sits at the end of Main Street, just steps from everything. Its peaceful ambiance, complete with a charming courtyard and private parking, is only occasionally interrupted by the hourly church bells. This 18th-century ivy-clad Manor House Hotel offers top-notch beds and linens within this price range, common to this region of Ireland. The courteous and helpful staff, a common trait across Western Ireland, will ensure your comfort.
While in Ennis, explore Fawls, a century-old pub right across from your hotel, known for its unique private drinking room, the "snug." You'll find a small ruin at the end of town, easily accessible. The shops and pubs in Ennis offer a distinctive experience for Americans, making you forget your jet lag. After exploring the shops, one of the best ways to unwind is by sitting on the steps near the tall column in the town square, which supports the Daniel O’Connell statue, providing an excellent spot for people-watching.
For a delightful dinner, we recommend Brogan’s, a charming yellow pub a stone's throw away from your hotel, serving excellent fish and chips. Good music, along with lively atmosphere, can be found at Cruise's, just down the street, or at Brogan’s. J.D.’s at 15 Merchant Square is an excellent choice for early morning coffee or breakfast after a long flight.
Day 2: Ennis to Glengarriff
As you embark on your journey towards the Atlantic Coast, head toward Limerick and then proceed to the picturesque village of Adare, one of Ireland's most photographed villages. Upon entering Adare, you'll cross the lovely stone Village Bridge, offering views of the dramatic ruins of Desmond Castle along the banks of the River Maigue, which dates back to the 13th century. You can explore the Holy Trinity Abbey on the main street, which welcomes visitors, along with a tourist information center within the Adare Heritage Center.
Don't forget to stop to admire the charming thatched roof cottages in Adare. A visit to the 18th-century style Village Town Park is a must, preserving the worn stones in the meandering river where local women used to wash their clothes. It's well worth the visit just for the views.
Adare's grand gates lead to Adare Manor, a magnificent 19th-century Manor Home with awe-inspiring architecture, including turrets, gargoyles, 52 chimneys, and 365 leaded glass windows. Near the roofline, you'll spot a trim that, upon closer inspection, reveals a message, "Except the Lord build the house, the labour is but lost that built it."
Continuing your journey to Gougane Barra, you'll experience Ireland's wild and tranquil beauty. Gougane Barra is home to an enchanting old stone chapel on an island in the middle of a serene mountain lake. As you take in the breathtaking surroundings, you'll be immersed in the crisp mountain air for which Western Ireland is renowned, thanks to its cleansing by the Atlantic Ocean's winds.
Adjacent to Gougane Barra is the Forest Park, accessible for a small fee. It is one of the most beautiful and serene forests you'll encounter. The loop through the park is a quick drive if you don't leave your car, but it's a place to linger and explore if you're a wanderer or hiker. Note: To find Gougane Barra, follow the small sign pointing to the Gougane Barra Hotel, located by the same lake.
Continue your journey to Glengarriff, nestled on the inlet of Bantry Bay. If you're a gardening enthusiast, make sure to reserve time to explore Garnish Island, a short distance from the shore. This 37-acre island garden was once privately owned but is now a gift to the Irish people, considered a paradise for gardeners. Check the schedule, as Garnish Island may be closed during your visit.
In Glengarriff, we suggest staying at the Eccles Hotel, one of Ireland's oldest hotels, conveniently located across the street from a cove of Bantry Bay. Known as the gateway to the Beara Peninsula, Glengarriff's location is perfect for an enjoyable start to your day. This small town offers lively pubs, especially in the summer and good weather, with outdoor patio seating for lunch on the main street, a short walk from the hotel.
Day 3: Glengarriff to Kenmare
The next day, drive out to the Beara Peninsula, following the main road west out of Glengarriff. This is a serene drive, perfect for exploring at your own pace, allowing you to relax if you're dealing with jet lag. By following the main roads and side streets, you'll encounter untouched scenic beauty. Expect to see magnificent mountain peaks, misty peninsulas in the distance, gorgeous coves with crashing waves, peaceful lakes, imposing cliffs over thundering surf, intriguing ruins, and slopes dotted with charming white cottages.
The Beara Peninsula is a haven for explorers, where wandering off the main road is rewarded by hidden treasures around every corner. Keep an eye out for "strand" signs, indicating beaches – they're often spectacular, particularly on clear days, and you may find yourself on a beautiful, secluded white sand beach. Garnish Strand near Garnish Point is one of the best.
The Beara Peninsula still retains Ireland's original character and remains free from overwhelming tourism. Places of interest on the Beara Peninsula include:
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Garnish Point and Dursey Island: Garnish Point is home to the only cable car ride in Ireland, originally built for 3 people and 1 cow. Don't be surprised if a sign at the ticket booth announces that "Cattle and Sheep Come Before Tourists." The rickety cable car swings and sways over treacherous waters before reaching Dursey Island, a favorite spot for hikers. Check the Information Center in Glengarriff for the cable car schedule.
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Bere Island: This island is reached by a ferry located several miles east of Castletownbere. The summer ferry runs back and forth every few hours and is a popular destination for hikers.
Two delightful towns to explore are Castletownbere, known for "McCarthy’s Bar" as humorously depicted in the book by Pete McCarthy, and Eyeries, a postcard-worthy village with cottages and shops painted in vivid colors.
The highlight of the Beara Peninsula is Healy Pass, with a road that runs north to south from Lauragh to Adrigole, especially the Glanmore Lake valley, often referred to as Paradise Valley. On a clear day, the view from the mountain edge, looking down into the steep valley toward the deep blue lake with the misty Atlantic Ocean in the background, is an unforgettable sight. Even if you only see this view on your visit to Beara, it's worth it.
For your overnight stay, we recommend Kenmare, a charming town with the ideal starting point for your next day's journey. Try the Lansdowne Arms Hotel, located at the top of one of the main streets. The Lansdowne Arms, originally built as a private residence in 1790, has since been transformed into a delightful Victorian-style hotel. Please note that during our visit in early July, most places were closed after about 5:30, so be prepared. We ended up having dinner at a Chinese restaurant, which, surprisingly, was quite good.
Day 4: Kenmare to Dingle Town
To avoid traffic, we recommend driving through the Gap of Dunloe early in the morning. This scenic route is often frequented by walkers, bikers, and charming horse-drawn carts with Irish drivers. The narrow road meanders through the mountains and Gap before leading to Kate Kearney's cottage, a delightful spot to take a break, enjoy coffee, and reflect on the natural beauty you've witnessed.
The day we drove through the Gap of Dunloe was a spectacular Irish day, with mist and sunlight creating a thousand diamond lights that danced off the lush green cliffs. Even with four photographers in the car, none of us could capture the beauty – it was like trying to capture a close-up of luxurious green velvet. It was on this drive that we truly understood the term "40 shades of green."
This route provides one of the most serene and untouched natural sceneries in all of Ireland. During the summer, you'll be followed by fast-flowing streams, rushing rapids, and waterfalls. Whenever possible, take the time to stop and appreciate the abandoned stone cottages, tranquil lakes, beautiful cliffs, and picturesque stone bridges along the way.
As you continue towards the Dingle Peninsula, prepare to make at least five stops before reaching Dingle Town.
Your first stop is the shortcut from Inch to Camp. Look for a small sign pointing up the mountainside shortly after passing the pink-colored BENSONS gas station and convenience store. Follow this road as it climbs up to a mountain plateau. From this point, you'll have an incredible view of the ocean in both directions: Inch Beach on Dingle Bay to the south and Tralee Bay to the north. On a clear day, this view is truly spectacular, with lush green mountaintops and meadows filled with wildflowers. Further along this road, be prepared for a slightly treacherous descent, but you'll likely want to turn around and come back.
As you continue westward toward Dingle, you'll come across Inch Beach on your left, a 3-mile stretch of silver sand at the mouth of Dingle Bay. This beach was featured in the film "Ryan's Daughter," and you might recognize it. Plan some time for a leisurely walk along this beautiful beach.
A few miles from Inch Beach, you'll take a short but worthwhile meandering drive up the mountain to the tiny village of Annascaul, known as the hometown of Tom Crean. Tom Crean, who had gone on three expeditions to the South Pole in the early 1900s, opened his own pub, the South Pole, upon returning to Annascaul. Don't miss the South Pole Pub, where you can ask the bartender to show you the "blizzard" before enjoying a pint or having lunch by the fireplace.
Down the street, you'll find another renowned pub, Dan Foley's, often seen on posters of famous Irish pubs. Unfortunately, it was closed and for sale the last time we passed by. The South Pole is also featured on this poster.
Across the street from the South Pole, you'll discover a statue of Tom Crean and his sled dog puppies. The surroundings of the South Pole are idyllic, with a crystal-clear stream bordered by native flowers. The stream flows under an ancient stone bridge, and standing there, listening to the water, you might be fooled into thinking that this is the most peaceful place on earth – until you realize that Tom Crean's grave, which he built himself, is located not far away along the mountainside.
If you have an interest in cemeteries, you absolutely mustn't miss this one. The graveyard is in the parish of Ballynacourty, has no sign, and you might even drive right past it despite looking for it. Ask someone in town for directions. The graveyard is rocky and challenging to navigate. The ancient graves are above ground and so old that the sides have caved in over the years. Tom Crean's large cement crypt is in a corner with a view of the mountains. He has been resting there for over 60 years, in one of the most peaceful places on earth.
A bit further up the main road is Lake Annascaul, located at the end of the same road that leads to the graveyard. Park your car by the mountain lake and, if you like, continue on the path up the mountain. It's a perfect place for an afternoon hike if you're inclined to explore.
Continuing on the main road to Dingle Town, you'll be treated to wide views of the Atlantic and jagged islands. Keep an eye out for the ruins of an old fort on your left and ancient beehive dwellings on your right. Both are worth a visit (for a small fee), and the scenery is breathtaking. The fort offers dramatic cliff views over the Atlantic, while the centuries-old beehive dwellings provide expansive ocean views – both are fantastic.
Dingle Town is a picturesque seaside village, the perfect hub for exploring the Dingle Peninsula. We recommend staying at the Dingle Bay Hotel, primarily for its central location right on the wharf. This ensures easy access to great pubs, shopping, and even a supermarket. Dingle is our preferred town on The Erin Way, known for its whimsical architecture, lively nightlife, and excellent shopping. Just keep in mind that Dingle Town has more than one main street, and it's rumored to be home to between 40 and 50 pubs.
Day 5: Dingle Town on the Dingle Peninsula
Highlights of the Dingle Peninsula include:
The Slea Head Drive: This is a loop that begins and ends in Dingle Town. If you do just one thing on the Dingle Peninsula, this is it. The Slea Head Drive just may be one of the most beautiful drives in the world, especially if you are lucky enough to enjoy good weather. Years ago, people living on the Dingle had small cardboard signs near their front gates with "Ryan's Daughter Expert" written on them in pencil since so many scenes from that movie were filmed there. Most people we take out to the Dingle Peninsula will tell us right on the spot and for years after that the Dingle Peninsula is the most beautiful and dramatic place they have ever been. Try staying two nights as sometimes it totally fogs over, and you can't see anything for hours. Two nights should allow you time to see everything.
Coumeenoole Beach: The most westerly beach in Europe and certainly, on a good day, one of the most dramatic and breathtaking. This beach was used in the Ryan's Daughter film. A parking lot exists above the beach. Go in the early morning or late afternoon if you want to be alone. It is a stunning site...this is not something you want to miss. You can walk around on top but then do walk down to the beach and take your camera.
Gallorus Oratory: The best-preserved early Christian church in Ireland, built between the 7th and 8th century. Despite being built without mortar by the method called corbelling, it is in almost perfect condition, withstanding the weather and elements for 1300 years.
Ryan's Daughter School House Ruins: The ruins of the schoolhouse used in this movie are perched at the edge of a cliff at the edge of the ocean, and the sunsets here are spectacular. It is difficult to find this site, and you can only see it from the road after you have passed it. It is located on the Slea Head Drive just outside of Kruger's Pub, billed as the most westerly pub in Europe. Stop and ask for directions if you must. There are no signs or turn off spots, and you will have to walk a couple of short blocks, and the unmarked trail to it is somewhat rough, but it is worth it. The view of the Sleeping Giant is perfect here.
Dunquin Pier: The launching spot for the Blasket Islands. Even if you don't take this trip, don't miss walking down to the pier just for the view of the islands alone.
Kilmalkedar Church: This is a 12th-century Romanesque ruin that has a very interesting graveyard with ancient graves as well as some current ones and also includes an ancient ogham stone with a sundial. Nearby is the restored ruins of St. Brendan's house, where the medieval clergy is reported to have lived.
Funghi the Dolphin: Take a boat ride in the bay to search for Dingle's famous dolphin.
Pubs: Some of the best pubs in Ireland are located in Dingle Town. Check our list of favorites to learn more.
Day 6: Dingle Peninsula to Lahinch - FAVORITES
Exit Dingle Town through Connor Pass, which is magnificent if the clouds stay away, offering a view from every angle. As you pass through, you will notice a white statue of the Crucifixion and a turnout to park your car. If you feel up to it, there is a small serene lake called Peddlers Lake at the top of the steep slope, also with great views. The climb up there is short but quite challenging.
Time permitting, you may also want to see Brandon's Point & Brandon Bay. There is a parking lot/lookout spot at the top, and the trip is an easy one. In good weather, Brandon's Bay below is a popular surfboarding location.
Next, you will travel to Tralee and then on to Tarbert for the ferry ride across the Shannon River. In the summer, the ferry travels every half hour. You simply roll your car aboard and stroll around the deck during the ½ hour trip. The Shannon River is wide here and usually a pleasant journey. You land at Kilmer. Follow the road to Kilrush, a very interesting and lively town with a great town center, and then on to Kilkee.
Kilkee is a delightful resort town and has developed on a large horseshoe-shaped bay on the Atlantic Ocean surrounded by wharf, sidewalks, and shops. It is interesting to observe, but the most exciting thing about Kilkee is its own best-kept secret: its steep cliffs along the Atlantic Ocean.
There are 2 ways to access these magnificent cliffs: 1) by a well-defined footpath 2) by a narrow road that hugs the edge of the cliffs.
The cliffs are directly south of the open bay at Kilkee. Follow the Sky Road that is adjacent to the main road that hugs the bay. It will take you up to a coffee shop with a parking lot where you can ditch your car and take an easy path up one of the cliffs. You can't tell this when you are below, but the footpath brings you to a part of the cliffs that juts out, and from that spot, you can see what seems like forever up and down the coast. This site is breathtaking.
When the footpath ends, you may want to continue on the grass beside the road for some extremely exhilarating scenery.
If you decide to drive the cliff road, be aware that there are no guardrails between your car and the edge, which appears to drop a bazillion feet. The views of the Atlantic, the irregular coastline, and the crashing waves here are dramatic to say the least. There is one place to park, walk around, and look over the edge if you dare. Eventually, this road leaves the edge, and you simply turn around and drive back the way you came. If you do have edge phobia and make it all the way around, this trip could cure you. Many of our groups say that they enjoyed the Cliffs of Kilkee more than the Cliffs of Moher.
Try staying in Lahinch this night. Lahinch is a wonderful small town with a great main street and an enjoyable promenade along the wide sweep of ocean right in the village. Lahinch Golf Course is one of the most famous links golf courses in the world and is located on the edge of the downtown, in fact, the golf course just melts into the city limits. Golfers can be seen walking down the sidewalk in golf gear with their clubs over their shoulder. Lahinch has great restaurants, shops, and pubs. In Lahinch, a favorite pastime of the locals and tourists alike is to walk the promenade at night and watch the sunset over the serene waters.
The hotel we stay at, the Atlantic Hotel, is small, 200+ years old, has multiple out-of-control steps, and a staircase too narrow for some Americans that seems to tilt slightly to the left or is it the right? The Atlantic Hotel is lively largely due to the fact that the bar in the lobby is usually overflowing with jolly, red-cheeked golfers from all over the world, dressed in matching jackets that sport emblems that don't match and teasing each other about chip shots, hooks, and handicaps. Anyway, the location is perfect!!! Right in the middle of town so we can walk everywhere!!! There are several fine pubs right on the same street as the hotel that are great for dinner. Try the quaint pub that is in an old stone house across the street from the Atlantic Hotel. We heard one of the most famous Irish tenors in western Ireland sing "O Danny Boy" there.
Day 7: Lahinch to Clifden, Connemara
After we leave Lahinch, the first stop we will make is at the Cliffs of Moher. The views at the Cliffs of Moher are magnificent but have recently been somewhat limited by new fencing and landscaping. The gift shop is one of the best in Ireland (but can be really crowded) and has a wonderful selection of CDs, hats, sweaters, and other gifts. Be aware that there might be hundreds of people at the Cliffs of Moher and possibly dozens of tour buses so it is always good to go early in the morning or later in the day. After you have seen the Kilkee Cliffs, the Cliffs of Moher may disappoint you. But if you don't go, you might always wonder about it since the place is so famous. NOTE: You have to pay to see the Cliffs of Moher.
Just north of the Cliffs of Moher is the charming town of Doolin, well-known not only for its dramatic bay with crashing waters but also for its famous pub music. There are 3 well-known pubs to be noted there: Gus O'Connors, McDermott's, and McGanns. Gus O'Connors serves terrific food and is a great place to meet people from all over the world as well as the locals. Ireland On My Mind feels Gus O'Connors has the best Irish Stew in Ireland.
Now we will continue north and skirt Galway, heading towards Moore Hall, Ballintubber Abbey, and Ashford Castle.
If you are into haunted mansions, you might want to visit Moore Hall although certainly you will need to stop and ask directions to find it. Moore Hall was built in the 1700s and burned in 1923 during the Irish Civil War. The shell of the mansion remains tucked eerily into a thick, dark forest that has grown up around it. You almost don't see it until you stumble on it. A small parking lot across from Lough Carra is the only indication that something exists about 2 or 3 blocks into the woods on a well-worn path. If you do seek out Moore Hall, note the tumbling down stone wall on the left of the path that is overgrown with ivy.
One of the most fascinating Abbeys in Ireland is located in Ballintubber. The Ballintubber Abbey is beautiful not because of its rich décor but because of its clean simplicity. The sanctuary is designed in the shape of a cross and it does have volume ceilings, yet the building will impress you with its minimalism This Abbey has been the parish church for its local community for close to 800 years and has survived the repeated near devastation of wars and fires. When St. Patrick brought Christianity to Ireland, it is reported he started an earlier church there in 441 A.D. with some of the ruins still visible. The Abbey is located adjacent to an ancient pilgrims' path and is surrounded by pristine manicured gardens and a well-kept graveyard. Recently, we witnessed a beautiful wedding at Ballintubber Abbey. Later that day, we saw the wedding party having their pictures taken on the grounds at Ashford Castle.
Ashford Castle is located in the town of Cong on the banks of the absolutely gorgeous Lough Corrib. This castle was once the estate of the Guinness family and today is renowned as possibly Ireland's most magnificent and luxurious castle hotel. The grounds of Ashford were used for many of the scenes in The Quiet Man, starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. Sweeping park lawns, beautiful gardens with flowers the size of cabbages, a meandering river, and dense medieval forests surround Ashford. Tours of some of the castles by unannounced tourists are not usually encouraged, but it is worth a stop to see the site of Ashford itself and you can stroll the extensive grounds. There are terrific boat trips leaving here almost daily that everyone can enjoy.
If you decide to stay in Connemara, allow a good two hours to get over to that beautiful region from Cong.
For your three-night stay in Connemara, you might try staying in the Quay House in Clifden, located directly on a serene bay and approximately two blocks from the city center, well within walking distance. The Quay House (pronounced Key House) is a B & B hotel operated by the Foyles, members of a well-known hotelier family in Connemara. This three-story stone structure was originally built for the harbor master 200 years ago and is the oldest house in Clifden. It is furnished with period furnishings, family portraits, and sports blazing fireplaces. Breakfast is served in a charming conservatory. The Quay House won the 2006 Guesthouse Award for Ireland. NOTE: Clifden is a popular vacation destination, and it is hard to book rooms there unless you try months in advance. From here, you can easily drive anywhere in Connemara and be back in time for dinner.
Day 8 & 9 in Connemara
We suggest you spend the next two full days in Connemara. To many of you, especially if you treasure tranquility, this will not be enough.
Connemara is surrounded by mountains, the most famous being the 12 Bens or the 12 Pins. The mountain ranges in this region change color from minute to minute, displaying constant variations of blues and purples. Often, the whole horizon seems to be awash in brilliant color. On occasion, after it rains and the sun comes out, the most unusual multicolor illuminations appear overhead, not unlike the Northern Lights, and seem to hang in the air above you. It won't surprise you that we have seen dozens of rainbows in this region in a matter of hours.
Here, the roads along The Erin Way travel for miles on the edge of the ocean, skirting beautiful bays dotted with thick concrete piers loaded with sailboats, wooden trollers, and small fishing boats. The area is famous for its hookers, sailboats with tall dark red sails. The sight of those dark sails, which appear black in certain lights, sliding across the sapphire water on Cashel Bay is utterly awesome. They say that if you see a hooker, you will have good luck. So enjoy! If you do spot one, it doesn't happen every day.
Connemara is blessed with undeveloped reflective blue lakes surrounded by tall pines, streams trickling down the mountainside, swift-moving rivers, beautiful waterfalls, and dramatic mountaintop views of the ocean. The larger towns are bustling, especially in the summer, and filled with terrific restaurants and shops. A number of the oldest and most lively pubs on The Erin Way are found in the smallest of Connemara villages. (See FAVORITES)
Some of the most beautiful and lush Irish landscapes found anywhere in Ireland are located in Connemara, but it also has, nestled between the mountains, several ancient completely treeless bogs, tabletop flat, that stretch out in front of you for miles. At first, the sight of such stark and bleak landscape, peppered with giant rock formations, thick windswept grass, and meandering sheep can be unsettling, but after a while, the barren beauty starts to mesmerize you. "The bog is good for you," we have been told in Connemara. It has something to do with the soft water...we haven't figured it out yet exactly. But, do be aware that if you get out of your car and venture out into a bog, you could lose your shoe or your life. Better to just snap a few photos and be on with it. How curious to experience such a landscape that on the one hand screams of an odd sort of wild-hair craziness but on the other hand exudes stillness and tranquility.
We have heard more Gaelic spoken and seen more spontaneous Irish dancing here than in any other area. Many famous Irish musicians come from this general region. Connemara is a mecca and vacation spot for artists, journalists, and musicians from all over. One of the most delightful aspects of Connemara is observing the Connemara ponies, sheep, and furry, brown donkeys as they cross the country lanes or, as in the case of the ponies and donkeys, stick their heads into your car. Also, some of the best walking trails in Ireland are located here in these serene mountains.
Driving around in the mountains on country lanes in Connemara is one of our favorite pastimes. The mountainsides and valleys are scattered with charming Irish farms, cottages, and gardens, and the wee villages which might consist of 2-5 structures are amongst the most charming in all of Ireland. In parts of Connemara, you travel on narrow, winding, often unmarked roads lined with stone walls that crisscross the countryside like a million zippers, and you have almost no idea where you are going unless you have a map. There is a small hotel here located back up in the mountains that years ago on its advertisements declared, "there are no signs to our property...you just have to find it."
Here are some of the most charming towns in Connemara:
Clifden: Looking down on the town of Clifden with its tall church steeples, colorful shops, and verdant landscaping lined by a beautiful bay, you would think you were staring at a painting or a postcard from the 1950s. Clifden is known as the "capital" of Connemara and doesn't disappoint if you are into a bustling atmosphere with terrific shopping and abundant good restaurants and pubs. If you want a day or a half-day off from touring, Clifden is a great place to walk around, shop, and eat. If you have time, stop and have coffee and a scone at Lowry's. NOTE: Clifden has a dentist which is not always easy to find in Connemara.
Roundstone: This is a charming town and has a definite Old World feel. (Don't miss the grocery store that is on Main Street and up a short flight of stairs from the sidewalk) The town is built in a line along a cliff overlooking a gorgeous blue bay with the most beautiful mountain range in the background. The lively wharf in the bay keeps busy with local fishermen and the occasional sailboats or hookers. Roundstone is a popular holiday spot in the summer for people from all over Ireland. It is well known as a mecca for arts and crafts, but its real draw is the absolutely remarkable beauty of the surrounding mountains and the seascapes on the coast roads to and from Roundstone. This town becomes a favorite to most people who visit it once.
Leenane: Leenane is a wee traditional Irish village which appears to have changed little in the last 100 years. It is located at the head of the Killary, Ireland's only fjord, and seems to be tucked back into the mountainside. The Killary is 8-10 miles inland from the sea, with the mountains rising steeply on either side. The areas on both sides of the fjord might be described as one of the most breathtaking scenes to enjoy in all of Ireland, especially at sundown and for the half-hour after. The drive from Tully Cross to Lettergesh to Leenane, as well as coming from the other direction (the drive from the Westport area past Delphi Lodge and Ashleigh Falls to Leenane), are two of the most beautiful drives in all of Ireland. Note: Scenes from "The Field" were filmed here.
Westport: This is one of the most fascinating towns in Ireland. Westport has a young and upwardly mobile population. This town has a most interesting history dating back to the 18th century. It was planned by a James Wyatt and is laid out in a rectangle, with two park squares and a river running through the middle. The town is filled with wide streets and boulevards, painted in lovely colors, and has several cobblestone streets. The highly popular Matt Molloy's Pub, owned by Matt Molloy of the Chieftains and former member of the Dubliners, is a great place to stop for a Guinness. NOTE: Westport has a dentist. Each Saturday night, there is a dance held at a location a couple of miles from the town center, where the young people of Westport and visitors from around the world get together to dance, share stories, and have a great time. It is possible to purchase tickets from 4 PM-5:30 PM on the day of the dance at the town community center located right next to the medical center. Just be prepared to not leave before 2 in the morning.
SCHEDULE NOTE: When in Roundstone or Clifden, it is possible to arrange to go out on a fishing boat. The Killary is famous for its mussels, and the skipper of the boat will have all the gear and equipment. You go out for several hours, sometimes for half a day. When the trip is done, the skipper will usually offer to have the mussels prepared at a local restaurant for your dinner. Enjoy your drive and do what you feel up to doing.
I hope this revised itinerary helps you plan your trip to Ireland! If you have any more questions or need further assistance, please feel free to ask. Safe travels!